How to Build Your Own Chastity Belt
NOTICE: This informational page is intended as an educational resource for adults wanting to construct their own chastity belt. The author of this article assumes no responsibility for any accidents or injuries resulting from constructing or wearing a chastity belt.
You donít need a fancy machine shop or a degree in mechanical engineering to build a chastity belt. You can easily build your very own chastity belt like the one shown above for less than $50 with just a few simple tools. The following instructions are for a male chastity belt, but can be modified to build a female chastity belt by eliminating the penis tube and modifying the front shield pattern slightly. Materials List:
You donít need a fancy machine shop or a degree in mechanical engineering to build a chastity belt. You can easily build your very own chastity belt like the one shown above for less than $50 with just a few simple tools. The following instructions are for a male chastity belt, but can be modified to build a female chastity belt by eliminating the penis tube and modifying the front shield pattern slightly.
Note: You can purchase most of the above materials at a hardware/building materials store such as Lowes and your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart.
Click on the small thumbnail images in the following directions to view larger photos. When you are through looking at a photo, use the "BACK" button on your browser to return to these directions.
Important: Read all of these directions before starting. Click HERE (Figure 1) to view the front shield pattern. Print out and enlarge the front shield pattern (Figure 1) until the shield is full size (three inches across at its widest point). Transfer the pattern onto cardboard and carefully cut it out. Stand without clothing and place the cardboard shield pattern over your genital area so that the "V" section extends between your legs and the tail ends between the back of your scrotum and your anus. Note where the top of the shield falls on your upper body; you may have to shorten or lengthen the top of the shield pattern so that it reaches to just below your navel as in the center photo at the top of this page.
Once you have determined the correct shield pattern dimensions, transfer the pattern to a sheet of 0.025 gauge aluminum. (*Note: If this is the first chastity belt youíve ever constructed, then I strongly recommend that you use aluminum rather than stainless steel for the front shield.) Carefully cut out the shield using your tin shears, then file and sand all edges smooth.
Cut a two-inch wide by four in long piece of sheet aluminum and fold it in half so that it forms a two-inch by two-inch square. Slip the folded piece over the top of the front shield to reinforce it where the mounting posts will be located. Drill two 3/16-inch holes near the end of the folded piece through the front shield at the locations indicated HERE (Figure 2). (Hint: Before drilling, use a hammer and a punch or nail to make a small "dimple" where the hole is to be drilled. This will keep the drill bit centered in the correct spot.) Secure using #8 stainless steel machine screws, washers and nuts. After tightening down the nuts, cut off the excess threads with a hacksaw and file flush with the top of the nut. (Hint: "Loctite" may be applied to the threads to keep the nuts from coming loose, or you can coat the nut with a thin layer of epoxy after you've cut off the excess threads.)
Using a 7/16-inch drill bit, drill the two holes in the top of the shield for the waistband mounting posts at the locations indicated on the shield pattern (Figure 1). Use a file to round the top corners of the shield top and then sand smooth. When you're done with this step, the top of the front shield should look like the photo below.
Using a hack saw, cut the penis tube from the PVC drainpipe as shown HERE (Figure 3). The length of the tube will depend on the length of your flaccid penis. The tube should cover your non-erect penis from root to just behind the head. Sand the edges of the PVC until it is smooth and rounded.
Use a discarded nylon stocking to slide the tube over your penis. Hold the shield over the downward pointing penis tube and practice standing and walking with the shield in place. Note where the tube is positioned against the shield and mark the location. Remove the penis tube and using a 3/32-inch bit, drill two holes 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches apart on the side of the tube that faces the shield. Drill two more holes in the shield the same distance apart so that the male organ tube is attached at the proper location. Attach the tube to the shield using #8 flat head stainless steel machine screws, washers and nuts. Make sure that the machine screw threads point outward so that the nut is on the outside of the shield. After tightening down the nuts, cut off the excess threads with a hacksaw and file flush with the top of the nut. Tip: For improved comfort, coat the machine screw head with a thin layer of "JB Weld" or similar metal epoxy, allow to dry thoroughly and then sand down flush to make a seamless transition from screw head to the surrounding penis tube interior.
Cut the four-foot long chrome chain at the mid-point. Attach one end of each two-foot section to a one-inch stainless steel "Quick Link".
Place the "Quick Link" with chains attached over the shield tail and fold the rectangular section back over the link to hold it in place as shown HERE (Figure 4). Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill a hole at the location shown in the figure. Secure with a #8 stainless steel machine screw, washer and nut. After tightening the nut, cut off the excess threads with a hack saw and file flush. The inside of the front shield with the penis tube and "Quick Link" installed should look like the photo below, except that you will not have installed the rubber edging yet. That comes later in Step 17.
Lay on you back nude and bend a strip of 1-1/4 wide tie-down around your waist so the top of the band covers your navel. Pull the strip until it is snug around your waist and then mark the length.
Drill two 7/16-inch holes in each end of the waistband so that when the ends are brought together the holes match up and the waistband fits snuggly. The distance between the waistband holes should be the same as the distance between the two 7/16-inch holes in the front shield so that the holes in the waistband and the shield line up. If they don't quite line up, use the rat tail file (round file) to shape/enlarge the holes until they do. Cut off any excess waistband and file the ends smooth. When you are done with this step the ends of the waistband should look like the photo below:
Remove the cylindrical mounting posts from the Safety Hasps. Insert the two mounting posts through the two-7/16 inch holes in one end of the waistband so that they will face away from the body and the holes in the posts are aligned. Use a small amount of adhesive to hold the mounting posts in place.
Cut a 1-1/4 inch wide by two-inch long retaining strip of sheet aluminum for the mounting posts. Bend one end of the strip around the end of the waistband so that the strip goes behind the backs of the mounting post. Drill a 3/16-inch hole near the unbent end of the strip through the strip and the waistband. Use a #8 stainless steel machine screw, washer and nut to secure the retaining strip to the waistband. After tightening, cut off the excess threads with a hack saw and file flush with the surface of the nut. When you're done with this step one end of the waistband should look like the photo below:
Drill two 3/16-inch holes in the waist and one-sixth of the length of the band on either side of the center of the back of the belt. (Example: If the waist belt measures 33 inches, then the holes will be drilled 5-1/2 inches on either side of the mid point of the waistband so that they are 11 inches apart.)
Fabricate two "Quick Link" hangers by cutting a strip of aluminum sheet ĺ inch wide by two inches long. Fold each strip around the unthreaded side of each "Quick Link", then drill a 3/16 inch hole near the center of each hanger as shown HERE (Figure 5) and in the photo below. Mount one hanger in each of the 3/16 inch holes in the waistband using #8 stainless steel machine screws with washers and nuts. After tightening, cut off the excess threads with a hack saw and file flush with the surface of the nut.
Following the directions for the contact adhesive, carefully glue a strip of rubber weather stripping to the inside of the waistband. Be sure not to cover up the 7/16- inch waistband mounting holes in the end of the waistband.
Fold the rubber weather strip over the top and bottom edges of the waistband and glue in place.
Cut two - one-inch wide strips out of the rubber weather stripping that are long enough to cover the edges of the front shield from below the waistband mounting holes to the tail of the shield. Glue one half of each strip lengthwise to the front edge of the shield. After the glue has dried, fold the other half of each strip over the edge of the shield and glue to the inside of the shield. Use clothespins to hold the rubber strip in place until the glue sets as in the photo below:
Attach the free end of each ass-cheek chain to a waistband "Quick Link" so that the shield hangs from the back of the waistband and the chains form a "V" like in the photo at the top of this page. You may need to adjust the chain length several times to achieve a comfortable fit. Below is a close-up photo of a "Quick Link" mounted on the waistband with the chain attached:
Install the belt by using a discarded nylon stocking to slide the tube over your penis. Put the waistband around your waist and insert the mounting posts through the holes in the free end of the waistband. Pull the front shield up and place the mounting holes over the mounting posts. You may need to bend the shield at the tail end to conform to your anatomy. Insert a padlock through one or both holes in the mounting holes.
Donít be discouraged if your first attempt doesnít fit properly or look very pretty. It may take you several tries to achieve a "perfect fit", but each try will produce a better-looking belt than the previous one. When youíve achieved the desired fit, you can transfer your shield pattern to a sheet of stainless steel.
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